40111円 EBIKELING 防水バイク変換キット 36V 500W 700C ギア付き電動バイク変換キット - フロントリアホイール 電動自転車ハブモーターキット スポーツ&アウトドア 自転車 自転車本体 40111円 EBIKELING 防水バイク変換キット 36V 500W 700C ギア付き電動バイク変換キット - フロントリアホイール 電動自転車ハブモーターキット スポーツ&アウトドア 自転車 自転車本体 スポーツ&アウトドア , 自転車 , 自転車本体,36V,フロントリアホイール,500W,防水バイク変換キット,700C,電動自転車ハブモーターキット,-,/mixtion1044427.html,EBIKELING,40111円,missboux.com,ギア付き電動バイク変換キット スポーツ&アウトドア , 自転車 , 自転車本体,36V,フロントリアホイール,500W,防水バイク変換キット,700C,電動自転車ハブモーターキット,-,/mixtion1044427.html,EBIKELING,40111円,missboux.com,ギア付き電動バイク変換キット EBIKELING 防水バイク変換キット 36V 500W 700C ギア付き電動バイク変換キット 電動自転車ハブモーターキット - フロントリアホイール 2020モデル EBIKELING 防水バイク変換キット 36V 500W 700C ギア付き電動バイク変換キット 電動自転車ハブモーターキット - フロントリアホイール 2020モデル

EBIKELING 防水バイク変換キット 36V 500W 700C ギア付き電動バイク変換キット 電動自転車ハブモーターキット 祝開店大放出セール開催中 - フロントリアホイール 2020モデル

EBIKELING 防水バイク変換キット 36V 500W 700C ギア付き電動バイク変換キット - フロントリアホイール 電動自転車ハブモーターキット

40111円

EBIKELING 防水バイク変換キット 36V 500W 700C ギア付き電動バイク変換キット - フロントリアホイール 電動自転車ハブモーターキット

商品の説明

防水36V 500W 700C ギア変換キット:フロントリア、LED-LCDディスプレイ、サム-ツイストスロットル

2020年モデル変換キットをご紹介します。 コネクタからモーターまで完全防水システムで、信頼性と効率性を確保します。 また、SW830 LCDディスプレイなどの新製品と、20インチのファットタイヤ変換キットも導入されています。

eBikeling Geared Ebike変換キットには、500Wハブモーターと22Ampコントローラが付属しています。
キットはアルミ二重壁リムで取り付ける準備ができており、ハブモーターはすでに取り付けられています。 必要なのは元のタイヤを移動することだけです。

防水。
アルミリムにはシュレーダータイプのバルブ用の開口部があります。
キットにはブレーキの再生オプションはありません。
PAS/ブレーキレバーはオプションです。 キットなしで作動します。
独自のブレーキとフリーホイールを使用できます。
推奨タイヤ幅:28C、32C
リム幅(内側):19mm。
リム直径 (外側): 633mm。
リム直径(内側):583mm。
スポーク: 234mm 12G カーボンスチール銅ニップル。
リアドロップアウト:135mm。
リアアクスル長さ: 199mm。
フロントアクスル長さ165mm。
フロントドロップアウト: 101mm。
モーターホイール重量7ポンド。
モータートルク:40Nm効率80%
モーターRPM(標準):300
モーターハブ直径: 158mm。
モーターマグネット:20。
ピーク電力: 0.84kW。
動作モード:S1。

パッケージ内容:

ギヤードハブモーター
ブラシレスモーターコントローラー (バッテリーコネクタやアダプターは付属しません)。
LEDまたはアップグレードされたLCDディスプレイ。
ツイストまたは親指スロットル
ペダルアシストセンサー。
フリーホイール(リアキット用)
安全スイッチ付きブレーキレバー2個、Vタイプとディスクブレーキ対応。
トルクアーム
チューブライナー。
取付金具とジップタイの取り付け。

電池は付属しません。

EBIKELING 防水バイク変換キット 36V 500W 700C ギア付き電動バイク変換キット - フロントリアホイール 電動自転車ハブモーターキット

In short, do not order the 700C front-motor unless you know beforehand, how you are going to deal with their thick axle.I have been using a bicycle as a primary means of transportation for nearly 40 years now and about 10 years ago, my knees told me that I was done riding without a motor.Commuting with a motorized bicycle to work downtown is like driving a convertible in a path dedicated to your own use with free parking when you get there. Very nice experience.This is my third bicycle motor. My previous two have been rear wheel Bionx motors. The last one, a D500, died on me; but so did the company itself, thus my purchasing this motor.I love the notion of buying a motor which does not limit me to a $1000 proprietary battery. I love the notion that the whole setup cost me about 1/3rd the cost.I rode it for the first time today and find that is nowhere near as responsive as the Bionx, however when weighed against the benefits above, I am quite happy.There is a 3 second delay when pedaling before the motor kicks in and 3 second delay after you stop pedaling before the motor turns off, so be sure to install the brake turn-off if you are going to rely mostly on pedal assist.The pedal assist works differently than it did on the Bionx. I was accustomed to setting 1 providing 25% assistance all the way up to 20mph and setting 4 providing 200% assistance up to 20mph. I generally stayed in setting 1 so that I could get some exercise and used the throttle to start up from a stop to save my knees.On this system however, setting 1 means both lower assistance as well as a lower top speed. If you want to go 20mph, you have no choice but to stay in setting 4 or 5. Not as much exercise, however at my age, my knees are not really complaining. There may be a setting to change this I have not yet encountered. This was my first trip (my commute is 10 miles each way).I uninstalled the PAS because I wanted to lock the battery to the bicycle frame. I have a folding Montague Navigator and the only bottle braze-on points are just above the pedals and I had to move the battery to a rear bag in order to install the PAS disk, however this meant I could not lock the battery to the bike.I found that PAS is hardly different at all to just using the throttle. While it is more natural for the foot to provide the power and the hand to not do so, I would prefer to lower the risk of theft.On setting 5, I found that the 13Ah Dolphin LG battery displayed 80% after 10 miles, 50% after the next 10 miles, and barely got me another 10 miles before conking out. The lower the battery % the lower my top speed.On setting 3, for the first 10 miles, the top speed was 17mph and battery still read 100% after that first 10 miles. at the end of the next 10 miles my top speed was 15mph and the battery read 75%.It came well packaged, but required a signature of someone over 21, so I had to keep a close eye on the UPS Follow My Delivery so that we would not miss each other a 2nd time.My one star off so far centers on the thick axle of the front-wheel version.Your front drop outs need to be at least 10mm to accommodate this axle, which is a bit large for a 700C front fork. I suspect they are using the same axle as their rear motor, where 10mm is usually fine. I have looked far and wide on-line and asked the local bike shop but, so far, every 700C front fork seems to have a 9mm drop. I have to either keep looking or return this motor or just grind down the axle. To be fair, my 2nd place choice, a Bafang model clearly stated that it required 10mm drop outs, so I am unclear as to who front-motor 700C wheel makers are selling to.I think 29" forks come with wider drop outs and I suspect that a 29" fork would install onto a 700c bike without a problem, especially if you are using disc brakes. Even if the drop outs were 15mm, since I would want to use two torque arms anyway, a couple of 5mm spacers may make it work.I have made eBikeling aware of this issue and they gave me no indication that it could or ever would be remedied. Their response: Unfortunately, we do not have such a chance.The rim is 18.8mm inside and 24.5mm outside. I am guessing that the 22mm in the description references the inside width where the bead goes, but I cannot measure that. My existing 622x18 rim is 18.5mm on the inside and 24mm on the outside.The inner most grove, where the rim tape goes, is 12mm. The thin rubber rim liner they provide is garbage, do not try using it as it will give you a flat tire. Within seconds of pumping up my tire to 100psi, it went flat and upon inspection, there was a smooth half circle cut out where the screw hole in the rim was and the rim rubber band provided was also cut. Fortunately I was half expecting that result and I had rim tape and a patch handy. I was curious.The only instructions in the box points you to website for instructions, but the website only shows three installations videos of the rear wheel and none for the front wheel. Fortunately, my bike has a mount for disk brakes as does this motor, so I knew which side was which so that the motor would move the bike forward, not backwards.If you look carefully at the information towards the bottom of the instructions page on their website, one of the photos and two of the plain sentences are actually links to PDF instruction files. I failed to noticed until they pointed this out to me.I did not own a crank puller tool or a bottom bracket tool to install the 2 PAS disks, so I had to place another Amazon order before I could continue.https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075K13N4SYou might wonder why I am choosing front vs rear. A rear motor, in theory, makes the most sense, however I had constant problems with the excessive weight causing rim explosions, broken spokes, and eventually two prematurely dead motors. With a front motor, I am reducing the complexity of the setup and moving weight forward and removing weight from the somewhat fragile and expensive motor and removing weight from the rear spokes and allowing for the original spokes which never broke before I started this motor business.When I saw that it came with lights, I was picturing in my mind bright lights without their own batteries that were hooked up to the big motor battery so that I can stop the ritual of having to constantly recharge the batteries in my head/tail lights, but they are in fact an off-the-shelf $3 pack of 2 tiny LED lights with coin sized batteries (it does not mention a specific size). I doubt I would bother taking them out of the packaging.However I did find very bright front headlight here on Amazon that worked perfectly for my intended purpose and it plugs directly into the LCD display.https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075K13N4SI already had a rear rack bag, so I used that to hold the battery and the controller (which must be close together as there is no extension cord for this connection). This way all the connections can be protected from rain. My previous Bionx motor stopped working about 20 minutes after it started raining, every single time. For my 2nd trip, I got rid of the battery bag and mounted the battery to my frame (after buying a new crankset gear to give me more clearance) and used zip ties to mount the controller to my rear rack and threaded the connectors thru an old large diameter bicycle tube to protect them from the rain and keep them together.The battery is a separate purchase from the same company and at the moment, they offer three different models for this 36V motor. This is the one I purchased (larger capacity and USB port). In retrospect, I would purchase the smaller battery for my particular frame.https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NHN18V9I also purchased two better quality torque arms as I read that the one provided may not be strong enough.https://smile.amazon.com/Grin-Technologies-Universal-Version-Electric/dp/B00K57N9III installed it on a 2014 Folding Montague Navigator. It took a LOT longer than I anticipated. I received it May 4th and the first time I had it together enough to ride it was May 15th and the second time, after waiting for even more parts, was not until May 20th. I probably spent a good 10 hours in total on installation. But much of that was due to my using a folding Montague instead of a normal frame. But if I wanted a non-folding big wheel bike or a folding small wheel bike, then I probably would have just purchased an eBike.
The motor hub and motor controller appear to be well-made. I like the included torque arm. Installation was straightforward.Some of the parts are disappointing in their build quality. For instance, the thumb-lever to control the motor speed has a mold part-line right on the thumb pad, and the mold is not well aligned. While it's not particularly problematic, it feels and looks really cheap and has me wondering how soon I'm going to have to replace that piece. Also, the LCD display panel has a mounting clip that has to be stretched open to fit over the handle bars. There is an adapter to accommodate handlebars of a smaller diameter, but on my bike, the provided screws are too short to attach the clip with the adapter in place and the clip is too big to secure the LCD without the adapter in place. In any case, when trying to adjust the display later, part of the clip snapped off (I think the plastic is cheap), and the unit is now held in place on one side by friction. The customer service representative agreed to send me a new unit.Another disappointment is the user manual. The box arrives with a note saying to find installation instructions on the website. I found that fine, and installation was straightforward. However, there is no help for the motor controller and display. I figured that I would plug it in, and it would just work and be self evident what to do. (Apple seems to get away with this approach just fine.) When I flipped the switch on my (separately purchased) battery, nothing happened. No response. No lights or beeps. No nothing. I double-checked the installation instructions. I disassembled everything and reassembled everything; measured the battery voltage; re-crimped the connectors; pressed the buttons I could find, and still nothing. Disappointed, I tried calling the support number but didn't get an answer (it was late Friday afternoon in central Texas) and then sent a note to customer service. On Monday, the customer service agent wrote me back to suggest that I press and hold the "M" button on the Pedal Assist Sensor control for 6 seconds to turn the unit on.I could not find the user manual for the S830 LCD display on the eBikeling web site. (It turns out it is there, at the bottom of the installation page, but the website search tool did not turn it up.) I found it elsewhere in an online search. On the last page of that manual, there is there is this: "Turn on/off the LCD Panel: When the display panel is operating, long press 'M' and it will be turn off, otherwise it will be turned on." This really should be restated in a Quick Start section at the front "To power up your e-bike, switch on the battery, then press and hold the 'M' button if the display has not already lit up."Setup and installation aside, the kit is nice to use for commuting. There are a number of different ways to use the motor. I find the thumb-level to useful for navigating intersections and blind sections of trail. However, for long straights, the cruise-control feature is quite nice. One setting on the LCD allows you to monitor current draw, so with the cruise control set, you can contribute by pedaling and see how much assist you're getting (or how much current you're saving with your pedaling).One interesting quirk is that the LCD odometer only measures distance that the motor is energized. That means the motor's odometer is not a replacement for your regular cyclometer since the motor spins down when coasting.On a related note, I found that having the motor energized interfered with the signal from my wireless cyclometer. I ended up replacing it with a cyclometer with a wired sensor.**800-mile update**I am into my fifth week of commuting 35 miles (round trip) most days of the week and have put about 800 miles on my bike with this kit.So far it is holding up well, and I have a few observations:- I can cruise at about 25mph on a straight with the PAS set on 5. On certain downhill sections, I can touch 30mph. The same section in the other direction, I can go about 20mph. PAS level 4 is useful in school zones, where the speed limit is 20mph. I don't use the other settings.- The torque is pretty significant. At stop lights, I usually end up beating the first cars through the intersection once the light changes. There's a noticeable kick when I press the thumb lever, even at speed. It's fun!- There is a short lag between pressing the thumb controller and getting torque. I believe this is inherent in the design of any free-wheeling geared motor. By now I am used to it and have learned to time my accelerations, but it takes some getting used to, particularly around corners or when navigating bumps, curbs, etc. If you hit the brakes when the cruise control is set and immediately press the thumb lever again, you will have not quite a second's lag time before the torque kicks in again.- Setting the cruise control (a very useful feature!) requires a button press of about 2 seconds. If the road is bumpy, sometimes my finger will come off the button and the "cruise control" long button press will be interpreted as a "lower the PAS level" short button press. A minor irritation, but if the engineers at eBikeling are listening, then they should take note.- I predict that the mode of failure on this kit will be the rubber button covers on the controller. Those buttons (especially the down arrow and middle button) get a lot of use during my daily ride, and I'm concerned the rubber will tear and/or the switch underneath with stop responding. Because of the way it is connected to the LCD panel, The whole panel will need to be replaced when that happens.- I fitted a light (I recommend using a motor-cycle style light with its own switch; some even have horns integrated) and connected it directly to the battery's power cables. The eBikeling-provided connector is made by Julet, and Julet connectors (while high quality and waterproof, etc) are not available in the US for individual purchase. I could not find a light with a two-conductor Julet connector for sale anywhere. If you want to use that connection and control it through the eBikeling controller, you'll need to find another weatherproof connector at the local auto parts or home improvement store. In any case, I was never able to measure voltage at that cable, no matter what I did with the controller- Finally, and this is minor, the motor tends to make a fair bit of noise. In addition to the whine of the gear set, I notice when it's almost up to cruising speed, it starts to sound like my disc brakes are rubbing (sching-sching-sching), although the noise disappears immediately when I disengage the motor. It doesn't always make that noise either. I'm not on stealth missions, so it's really not an issue.**2000-mile update** [2100 miles on my cyclometer, 1600 miles on the eBikeling trip computer]The motor is still holding up well, and my initial worries about the build quality of the control buttons have abated somewhat.Two complaints have surfaced in colder weather:- The PAS control buttons are hard to use with cold weather gloves. Use of the cruise-control function is more or less a necessity on long commutes; mine is about an hour - (16 miles) each way. It is not feasible to hold the thumb lever for that long. The buttons are small enough that it is tricky to press just one through gloves that are warm enough in the winter.- Once the battery level gets to about 25-30%, the cruise control becomes very finicky about whether it wants to hold the speed. That is, it frequently shuts off, and use of the motor requires the thumb lever. I find this to be pretty annoying since this often happens on a hill when I need the boost the most. The battery tends to fade faster when the weather is colder, so this is also largely a cold-weather phenomenon.- Also related to the cruise control but not cold weather, it seems to be sensitive to bumps or vibrations. Sometimes when accelerating, if I hit a bump in the road, the cruise control shuts off. This typically happens when a red light has turned green, and with accelerating cars around me, I'd rather have a consistent boost.
I choose ebikeling because I could order through Amazon and could be assured of quick shipping. I also liked what I saw at the ebikeling website. They have spare parts available for their kits.I had a spare 700c front wheel hanging in the garage and the kit came with a rear wheel, so I decided to build a bike from the frame up. Bikeisland had aluminum track frames for sale for $99. The bottom bracket, crankset, and brakes, rear derailleur, and other parts I bought off of ebay. I set the bike up as a 7 speed only with no front derailleur. I built the battery pack myself because I wanted to be assured of the battery quality. My battery is 36V 40 cells and is 14 AmpHr. Size is 3"x2"x12" Total bike weight is around 36 lbs but I think there are some things I could do to reduce that.My only complaint is the cabling provided in the kit is long to accommodate the variety of bikes out there. I get it - but in my case I am left with a bunch of coiled cables in my saddlebag. These cables are multi-stranded, so they are not easy to cut and re-splice. But I think I may have to do that.I am 5' 10" and I weight about 190. 500 watts seems just right as far as power. The pedal assist works better than I thought it would but I prefer to control the power with the thumb throttle. My goal was to build a bike I could ride for a long distance without any electric assistance. I could then use the power on the return leg of the ride after I have done about 45 miles and then cope with the steep hills to climb to get back home. Used this way I can now take longer excursions and still get a good workout The bike can also be used in "moped mode" when I have to ride the 2 miles into town to hit the post office or the produce store and I don't want to break a sweat.Update 9/11/20 - I was having trouble enabling thumb control only - without PAS. I just unplugged the PAS sensor. I might just remove the sensor.I can confirm the provided rim tape on the wheel is useless. I used Gorrilla tape and poked a smaller hole in order to use presta valve. I also 3d printed a little valve support to size down the valve hole. Why would they do a schrader valve on a 700C rim? I am running 700x28 at 110 psiWishing the rear wheel was lighter. A carbon rim with reduced count of bladed spokes would sure save some weight. Seriously considering a re-lace.I can't seem to find a P07 value that gives reasonable speed and odometer reading, but I'm still looking.. No big deal since I use a Garmin.Update 9/232020:I've added some photos showing the bike in its most recent configuration and to show my DIY battery.Very happy at this point. Another change I made was an 11-32T cassette.
I have the 500W rear motor hooked up to a 10Ah Bespov battery. The install process is pretty straightforward if you have experience working with both electrical systems and bicycles, otherwise I could see it being super confusing. I am running PAS only since the throttle doesn't fit my drop bars, with the PAS, there is a slight delay in turning on/off and it doesn't have what I would call a smooth application of power.Pro's:Strong PAS that gets me up the hills in town with good speed and lets me cruise at 25mph+ on flats.Disc brake compatibleCons:Rim strip that is provided is absolute trash, put on actual rim tape otherwise your tube will pop once you get it up to pressure.Installation instructions are lackingComponents do not fit road bike drop bars.
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